Attic Insulation
Blown-in and spray-foam attic insulation that improves comfort, cuts energy costs, and protects your roof deck.
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Insulation Is Your Roof’s Best Friend
Attic insulation does two things that directly protect your roof. In winter, it keeps warm, moist air from leaking into the attic, where it condenses on the cold roof deck and causes mold, rot, and ice dams. In summer, it slows heat transfer from the living space into the attic, keeping the roof deck cooler and reducing the thermal stress that shortens shingle life. Without adequate insulation, your HVAC system works harder, your energy bills climb, and your roof ages faster.
We install blown-in fiberglass, blown-in cellulose, and spray-foam insulation in attics across all climate zones. Our approach starts with air sealing the attic floor — sealing every penetration from the living space — then adding insulation to the correct depth for your region.
Why Air Sealing Comes First
Insulation slows heat transfer. It does not stop air leakage. Warm, moist air from the living space leaks through recessed lights, plumbing stacks, electrical boxes, attic hatches, and HVAC ducts into the attic. No amount of insulation stops this airflow — you need to seal the gaps first.
- Recessed lights — every can light is a hole in the attic floor; we cover them with airtight caps
- Plumbing stacks — the gap around the pipe through the attic floor is sealed with fire-rated caulk
- Electrical boxes — we foam-seal the gap around every wire that passes through the attic floor
- Attic hatch — weatherstripped and insulated to match the surrounding insulation level
- HVAC ducts — sealed with mastic where they pass through the attic floor
Air sealing typically reduces heating and cooling costs by 10 to 20 percent on its own. Combined with proper insulation, the savings are substantial.
Insulation Types Compared
| Type | R-value per inch | Cost per sq ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blown-in fiberglass | R-2.5 – R-3.0 | $0.50 – $1.00 | Lightweight, easy to install, non-settling | Lower R-value per inch |
| Blown-in cellulose | R-3.2 – R-3.8 | $0.60 – $1.20 | High R-value, fills gaps, settles naturally | Heavier, may settle over time |
| Spray foam (open-cell) | R-3.5 – R-3.7 | $1.50 – $3.00 | Air seals and insulates in one step | More expensive, professional install only |
| Spray foam (closed-cell) | R-6.0 – R-7.0 | $3.00 – $5.00 | Highest R-value, moisture barrier | Most expensive, rigid |
| Fiberglass batts | R-3.0 – R-3.8 | $0.40 – $0.80 | Low cost, DIY-friendly | Gaps around obstacles, less effective |
For most attic retrofit projects, blown-in cellulose or blown-in fiberglass offers the best balance of cost, coverage, and performance. Spray foam is ideal when air sealing and insulation are combined in one step.
How We Insulate an Attic
- Air sealing — we seal every penetration from the living space into the attic before adding insulation
- Assessment — we measure existing insulation depth, check for moisture or mold, and verify ventilation is adequate
- Safety prep — we lay walk boards and protect lighting fixtures and electrical panels from insulation contact
- Blown-in application — insulation is blown through a hose from the truck to the attic floor, built up to the calculated depth for your climate zone
- Depth verification — we measure the depth at multiple points to confirm uniform coverage and correct R-value
- Ventilation check — we verify soffit vents are not blocked by insulation; baffles are installed at every rafter bay
- Final inspection — we confirm the insulation level, check for gaps, and ensure the attic hatch is properly sealed and insulated
Attic Insulation Costs
| Component | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Blown-in fiberglass (1,000 sq ft attic) | $1,000 – $2,000 |
| Blown-in cellulose (1,000 sq ft attic) | $1,200 – $2,500 |
| Spray foam (open-cell, 1,000 sq ft) | $3,000 – $6,000 |
| Air sealing (before insulation) | $1,000 – $3,000 |
| Attic hatch insulation | $100 – $300 |
The Department of Energy recommends R-49 for cold climates and R-38 for moderate climates. Most older homes have R-19 or less. Bringing an older attic up to current code typically costs $2,000 to $5,000 and pays for itself in energy savings within 3 to 7 years.
Signs You Need More Attic Insulation
- Your upper floors are significantly hotter in summer or colder in winter than the lower floors
- Ice dams form at the eaves every winter
- Your heating and cooling bills are higher than neighbors with similar homes
- The attic feels hot enough to cook in during summer
- You can see the floor joists through the existing insulation (insulation should cover the joists)
- Frost forms on the underside of the roof deck in winter
Not sure if your attic has enough insulation? Call us or request a free assessment — we will measure your insulation level, check for air leaks, and recommend the right solution for your climate.
Attic Insulation and Energy Savings
The Department of Energy estimates that proper attic insulation can reduce heating and cooling costs by 15 to 30 percent. The actual savings depend on your current insulation level, climate zone, and energy costs.
| Current R-value | Target R-value | Estimated annual savings |
|---|---|---|
| R-11 (existing older home) | R-49 | 20 – 30% reduction in heating/cooling costs |
| R-19 | R-49 | 15 – 25% reduction |
| R-30 | R-49 | 5 – 15% reduction |
| R-38 | R-49 | 2 – 8% reduction |
For a typical home spending $2,000 per year on heating and cooling, upgrading from R-19 to R-49 saves $300 to $500 annually. The insulation upgrade pays for itself in 3 to 7 years and continues to save money for the life of the home.
Insulation and Roof Warranty
Your roof warranty depends on proper attic ventilation and insulation. Manufacturers require adequate attic ventilation to prevent moisture buildup and premature shingle aging. If your attic has inadequate insulation, the resulting moisture problems can void your roof warranty.
- Moisture from inadequate insulation causes deck rot, which is a structural issue not covered by roofing warranties
- Poor ventilation creates excessive heat that accelerates shingle degradation
- Ice dams caused by heat loss through the attic damage shingles and flashing — this is a maintenance issue, not a manufacturer defect
- Manufacturers may deny warranty claims if they determine the failure was caused by inadequate attic conditions
Proper insulation protects both your energy budget and your roof warranty. We ensure your attic meets the insulation and ventilation requirements that your roofing manufacturer specifies.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
How much attic insulation do I need?
The Department of Energy recommends R-49 for cold climates (zones 5 and above) and R-38 for moderate climates (zones 3 and 4). This typically means 15 to 20 inches of blown-in cellulose or fiberglass, or 5 to 7 inches of closed-cell spray foam. Most older homes have R-19 or less. We measure your existing insulation and recommend the right amount for your climate zone.
Should I insulate the attic floor or the roof deck?
For most homes, insulating the attic floor is the correct approach. This keeps the attic cold in winter, which prevents ice dams and reduces heating costs. Insulating the roof deck (hot roof) is appropriate for attic spaces that house HVAC equipment or where the attic will be finished as living space. We evaluate your specific situation and recommend the right approach.
Can I add insulation over existing insulation?
Yes, as long as the existing insulation is dry, not compressed, and not moldy. New blown-in insulation is added on top of existing batts or loose-fill to reach the target R-value. If the existing insulation is wet, compressed, or contaminated with mold, it should be removed before new insulation is installed. We inspect the existing insulation before recommending the approach.
How much does attic insulation cost?
Blown-in fiberglass costs $1,000 to $2,000 for a typical 1,000 square foot attic. Blown-in cellulose costs $1,200 to $2,500. Spray foam costs $3,000 to $6,000. Air sealing (which should always be done before insulating) costs $1,000 to $3,000. Most homeowners recover the cost through energy savings within 3 to 7 years.
Does attic insulation prevent ice dams?
Proper insulation is the primary defense against ice dams. Insulation keeps warm air from leaking into the attic, which prevents the roof deck from warming unevenly and melting snow on the surface. Combined with air sealing and proper ventilation, insulation virtually eliminates ice dam formation. We address all three elements — insulation, air sealing, and ventilation — as an integrated system.
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