Skylight Installation
Skylight and tubular light installation — more natural light, properly flashed and leak-free.
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Bringing Daylight Into Every Room
A skylight transforms a dark attic, hallway, or bathroom by pouring natural light from above. Tubular skylights bring that same daylight into interior rooms where a traditional skylight cannot reach. The key to a skylight that performs for decades is not the glass — it is the flashing. A skylight installed with proper step flashing, counter flashing, and underlayment integration will never leak. One installed with caulk and hope will fail within a few seasons.
We install both traditional skylights and tubular daylighting devices on residential and light commercial buildings. Every installation follows the roof manufacturer’s flashing specs and the skylight manufacturer’s installation instructions — because the roof warranty depends on it.
Traditional Skylights vs. Tubular Skylights
| Feature | Traditional skylight | Tubular skylight |
|---|---|---|
| Light output | Large area of direct light | Focused, diffused light |
| Size | 14.5 x 16 to 46 x 46 inches | 10 to 14 inch diameter tube |
| Best for | Large rooms, vaulted ceilings | Hallways, bathrooms, closets |
| Flashing complexity | High — must integrate with roofing | Moderate — single penetration |
| Cost installed | $800 – $2,500 | $500 – $1,200 |
| Energy impact | Can increase heat gain/loss | Minimal — small, insulated tube |
| Privacy | Requires frosted or blinds | Natural diffused light, no view in |
Traditional skylights are the right choice for bedrooms, living rooms, and kitchens where you want maximum daylight and a view of the sky. Tubular skylights are ideal for interior rooms where a traditional skylight is not practical.
How We Install a Skylight
- Placement — we locate the best position based on roof orientation, ceiling type, and room layout; south and west-facing skylights maximize light
- Roof cut — we mark the opening on the roof, cut through the shingles and underlayment, and remove the section of decking
- Framing — we frame the opening with headers and cripple studs to support the roof structure
- Flashing installation — step flashing at the sides, header flashing at the top, sill flashing at the bottom; all integrated with the underlayment and roofing material
- Skylight setting — the skylight unit is set into the opening, aligned, and secured to the framing
- Interior finishing — we install the interior trim, shaft liner, and any blinds or shades
- Sealant and roofing — final sealant at all flashing joints; shingles or roofing material installed up to and over the flashing flanges
Skylight Installation Costs
| Component | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Fixed skylight (installed) | $800 – $1,800 |
| Venting skylight (installed) | $1,200 – $2,500 |
| Tubular skylight (installed) | $500 – $1,200 |
| Replacement of existing skylight | $600 – $1,500 |
| Skylight flashing kit | $100 – $300 |
| Interior trim and shaft | $300 – $800 |
| Motorized venting upgrade | $200 – $500 |
Most skylight installations are completed in a single day. We carry the most common sizes and flashing kits on our service trucks.
Skylight Energy Performance
| Feature | Standard glass | Low-E glass | Low-E + argon |
|---|---|---|---|
| UV transmission | 70%+ | 25 – 35% | 20 – 30% |
| Solar heat gain (SHGC) | 0.50+ | 0.25 – 0.35 | 0.20 – 0.30 |
| U-factor (insulation) | 0.50+ | 0.30 – 0.40 | 0.20 – 0.30 |
| Best for | Budget installs | Most climates | Cold or hot extremes |
If energy performance is a concern, choose a skylight with a low-E coating and argon gas fill. Combined with a cellular shade, the energy impact of a modern skylight is comparable to a same-sized section of well-insulated roof.
Common Skylight Problems
- Leaking around the flashing — the most common problem; caused by improper installation, failed sealant, or missing step flashing
- Condensation between panes — the insulated glass unit has failed and the desiccant is saturated; requires glass replacement
- UV fading — standard glass transmits UV that fades furniture and flooring; low-E glass reduces UV transmission
- Heat gain in summer — skylights on south and west exposures admit significant heat; shades and low-E glass help
- Heat loss in winter — skylights lose more heat than the surrounding roof; insulated glass and shades reduce heat loss
- Interior condensation — warm, moist room air contacts the cold skylight surface; controlled by ventilation, not the skylight
Most skylight leaks are repairable by re-flashing the unit without replacing the skylight itself.
Skylight Blinds and Shades
Controlling light and heat from a skylight is just as important as the installation. We install:
- Cellular shades — block up to 75% of solar heat gain; available in light-filtering and blackout fabrics
- Venetian blinds — adjustable slats for precise light control
- Flat roof roller shades — for low-slope applications where cellular shades are not practical
- Motorized options — remote-controlled or smart-home integrated for hard-to-reach skylights
Shades are not optional. Without them, a south-facing skylight can increase cooling costs by 25% or more in summer. With shades, the energy impact is minimal.
Maintaining Your Skylight
- Clean the glass annually from the ground or with a ladder (never walk on the roof to clean a skylight)
- Check flashing seals every two years — look for dried or cracked sealant
- Inspect the interior shaft for water stains after heavy rain
- Operate venting skylights regularly to keep the mechanism working
- Replace blinds or shades if they become discolored or damaged
- Schedule a professional inspection during any roof maintenance visit
- Clear debris from the skylight dome or glass surface — standing leaves trap moisture against the flashing
Skylight Placement Guidelines
| Roof orientation | Light quality | Heat gain | Best room type |
|---|---|---|---|
| North | Cool, consistent | Low | Studios, offices, kitchens |
| South | Bright, warm | High | Living rooms, great rooms |
| East | Morning light | Moderate | Bedrooms, breakfast nooks |
| West | Afternoon light | High | Family rooms, dining areas |
South-facing skylights produce the most light year-round. North-facing skylights provide consistent, even light with minimal heat gain. We recommend the orientation that matches your room’s function and your climate’s cooling needs.
Skylight Energy Performance
| Feature | Older skylights | Modern low-E skylights |
|---|---|---|
| U-factor | 0.50 – 0.80 | 0.25 – 0.40 |
| SHGC | 0.40 – 0.70 | 0.15 – 0.35 |
| Argon fill | No | Yes |
| Frame material | Aluminum | Vinyl, fiberglass, wood |
| Annual energy impact | Noticeable heat gain/loss | Minimal — comparable to a well-insulated window |
Modern skylights with low-E glass and argon gas fill are dramatically more efficient than units installed before 2000. Pairing a new skylight with a cellular shade gives you full control over light and heat year-round.
Want more natural light in your home? Call us or request a free estimate — we will recommend the right skylight or tubular option and install it with leak-proof flashing.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a skylight leak?
A skylight installed with proper step flashing, counter flashing, and underlayment integration will not leak. Most skylight leaks are caused by poor installation or failed sealant, not the skylight unit itself. We follow the skylight manufacturer's flashing specifications exactly and integrate the flashing with your roofing system so the roof warranty remains intact.
Do skylights make the house too hot in summer or too cold in winter?
Older skylights without low-E glass can cause heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. Modern skylights with low-E coatings, argon gas fill, and insulated frames significantly reduce energy impact. We also install cellular shades that block up to 75 percent of solar heat gain. The energy impact of a properly glazed modern skylight is minimal.
How long does skylight installation take?
A standard skylight installation takes four to six hours for a single unit. Tubular skylights take two to three hours. If framing modifications are needed or the roof has complex layers, the installation may take a full day. Interior finishing — trim, shaft liner, and painting — is typically handled by the homeowner or their finishing contractor.
Can I replace an existing skylight without re-roofing?
Yes. We can replace the skylight unit and its flashing while leaving the surrounding roofing intact. We remove shingles only in the immediate area around the skylight, install new flashing, and replace the shingles. The surrounding roof is not disturbed.
What is the difference between a fixed and venting skylight?
A fixed skylight does not open — it provides light only. A venting skylight opens manually or electronically to allow hot air to escape and fresh air to enter. Venting skylights are ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and vaulted spaces where heat and moisture accumulate. Fixed skylights are more energy-efficient and less expensive.
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