Chimney & Flashing Repair
Chimney flashing and roof flashing repair — step flashing, counter flashing, and sealant that stops leaks.
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The Number One Leak Source on Any Roof
Flashing failures cause more roof leaks than any other single problem. Flashing is the metal — or sometimes membrane — that seals the joints where the roof meets a vertical surface: chimneys, walls, skylights, and vent pipes. Every one of these transitions is a potential leak point because two different planes of roofing meet at an angle, and the sealant and metal work together to keep water from entering the gap. When the sealant dries out, the metal corrodes, or the step flashing shifts, water finds its way in.
We repair and replace flashing at chimneys, walls, skylights, vent pipes, and valleys. Our crews fabricate custom flashing on site from copper, lead-coated copper, galvanized steel, or aluminum — matched to the roofing material and built to last.
How Chimney Flashing Works
Chimney flashing is a multi-component system, not a single piece of metal.
- Step flashing — L-shaped pieces installed one at a time, woven into the shingle courses along the sides of the chimney; each piece overlaps the one below it
- Counter flashing — embedded into the chimney mortar joints or reglet and folded down over the step flashing; this is the waterproof seal at the chimney face
- Base flashing — a wide piece that goes under the shingles at the front of the chimney and extends up the face
- Cricket or saddle — a small peaked structure behind the chimney that diverts water around it; required on chimneys wider than 30 inches
- Sealant — used at the counter flashing to chimney joint, not as the primary water barrier
The most common failure is at the counter flashing — when the sealant dries out and cracks, water runs down the chimney face and behind the step flashing.
Types of Flashing Repairs
| Problem | Repair method |
|---|---|
| Dried sealant at counter flashing | Remove old sealant, re-seal with high-quality polyurethane |
| Lifted or separated step flashing | Remove affected shingles, re-install step flashing, re-shingle |
| Corroded metal flashing | Replace with new material matching the roofing system |
| Missing cricket on wide chimney | Build and install a cricket with proper flashing |
| Pipe boot failure | Replace rubber boot and collar with new UV-resistant unit |
| Wall flashing separation | Re-install step and counter flashing with proper sealant |
| Valley flashing damage | Remove old valley metal, install new valley flashing with ice-and-water shield |
Flashing Repair Costs
| Repair type | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Re-seal counter flashing | $200 – $500 |
| Step flashing replacement (per chimney side) | $300 – $800 |
| Full chimney flashing replacement | $1,000 – $2,500 |
| Cricket installation | $1,500 – $3,500 |
| Pipe boot replacement | $150 – $400 |
| Wall flashing repair | $400 – $1,200 |
| Valley flashing replacement | $800 – $2,000 |
Every flashing repair includes new sealant, properly fitted metal, and re-secured shingles. We do not just smear sealant over the problem and call it done.
Flashing Materials Compared
| Material | Lifespan | Cost | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Copper | 50 – 80 years | High | Premium homes, long-term durability |
| Lead-coated copper | 50 – 80 years | High | Traditional chimney flashing |
| Galvanized steel | 15 – 25 years | Moderate | Budget-conscious, inland climates |
| Aluminum | 20 – 30 years | Moderate | Coastal areas (no rust), residential |
| Stainless steel | 50+ years | Very high | Industrial, chemical exposure |
We match the flashing material to your roofing system. Copper pairs naturally with slate and cedar. Aluminum works well with asphalt shingles in coastal environments. Galvanized steel is the standard for most residential applications in inland areas.
Why Flashing Fails
- Sealant degradation — UV and temperature cycles dry out sealant joints within 10 to 15 years
- Metal corrosion — galvanized steel rusts in coastal and industrial environments; aluminum corrodes in contact with cedar tannins
- Settlement — building movement shifts the relationship between the chimney and the roof, breaking the flashing seal
- Ice and water backup — ice dams push water up under the flashing where gravity normally drains it away
- Poor original installation — flashing that was caulked instead of properly step-flashed will fail eventually
- Mortar deterioration — chimney mortar joints erode over time, loosening the counter flashing embedded in them
Preventing Flashing Problems
- Inspect flashing seals every two years — look for cracked or missing sealant at chimney and wall transitions
- Re-seal counter flashing joints before the sealant completely fails
- Replace corroded flashing proactively — do not wait for it to leak
- Ensure a cricket is installed on chimneys wider than 30 inches
- Replace pipe boot collars every 10 to 15 years — they are inexpensive and prevent a common leak source
- Repoint chimney mortar joints when they show signs of erosion
- Have flashing inspected as part of any roof replacement — if the roof is being replaced, flashing should be replaced too
Flashing Materials Compared
| Material | Lifespan | Cost per linear foot | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum | 20 – 30 years | $5 – $10 | Most residential applications |
| Galvanized steel | 15 – 25 years | $4 – $8 | Budget option, painted to match roof |
| Copper | 50 – 80 years | $15 – $30 | Premium, historic homes, visible areas |
| Lead | 30 – 50 years | $8 – $15 | Pipe boots and small penetrations |
Aluminum is the most common chimney flashing material. It is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and easy to form around irregular chimney shapes. Copper is the premium choice — it lasts longer than any other flashing material and develops a patina that complements slate and cedar roofs. We match the flashing material to your roof type, climate, and budget.
Common Chimney Flashing Failures
- Dried sealant — caulk at counter flashing joints shrinks and cracks over 5 to 10 years, allowing water entry
- Lifted step flashing — wind and thermal movement pull step flashing away from the chimney wall
- Missing cricket — chimneys wider than 30 inches without a cricket accumulate water and debris on the uphill side
- Rusted steel — galvanized steel flashing corrodes in coastal or industrial environments, creating pinhole leaks
- Improperly embedded counter flashing — counter flashing that was surface-mounted instead of grooved into mortar joints will pull out
Chimney leaking or flashing failing? Call us or request a free inspection — we will identify the exact failure point and repair it with properly fabricated and installed flashing.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my chimney leak even though the bricks look fine?
Chimney leaks almost never start in the brickwork. They start at the flashing — the metal seal where the chimney meets the roof. The counter flashing is embedded into the mortar joints or a reglet cut into the brick, and it relies on sealant to stay watertight. When that sealant dries out and cracks, water runs down the chimney face and behind the step flashing. Re-sealing the counter flashing typically fixes the leak.
What is a chimney cricket and do I need one?
A cricket is a small peaked structure built behind the chimney that diverts water around it instead of letting it pool against the back face. Building codes require a cricket on chimneys wider than 30 inches because the large flat area behind a wide chimney collects water and debris, which accelerates flashing failure. If your chimney is wider than 30 inches and does not have a cricket, we recommend installing one.
How long does flashing repair take?
A simple re-seal of counter flashing takes one to two hours. Step flashing replacement on one side of a chimney takes half a day. A full chimney flashing replacement with new step, counter, and base flashing takes one to two days. Cricket installation adds one to two additional days.
Can I just caulk the flashing to stop a leak?
Caulking a flashing joint is a temporary fix that buys time but does not solve the underlying problem. If the step flashing has shifted, the metal is corroded, or the counter flashing is not properly embedded, sealant alone will fail again within a season or two. A proper repair addresses the specific failure point with new metal and correct installation.
What flashing material is best?
Copper is the most durable flashing material — it lasts 50 to 80 years and does not corrode. Lead-coated copper is the traditional choice for chimney flashing. Galvanized steel is more affordable but can rust in coastal or industrial environments. We match the flashing material to your roofing system and climate for the best long-term performance.
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